The US Navy has an indoorocean that can simulate any wave in the world. This video is sponsored by Brilliant. You can get started for free, or the first 200 people to sign up via brilliant.org/veritasium get 20% off a yearly subscription.
▀▀▀ Thanks to Kelley Stirling and the Naval Surface Warfare Center, Carderock Division for the visit. Thanks to Miguel Quintero and Capt. Todd E. Hutchison for talking to about the important work going on in the Maneuvering and Seakeeping Basin. Thanks to Dr. Georgy Manucharyan at the University of Washington for his help in understanding ocean waves.
Webb, P. (2017). Introduction to Oceanography. Chapter 10: Waves. Online OER textbook. – ve42.co/Webb2017 Stewart, R. (2008). Introduction to Physical Oceanography. – ve42.co/Stewart2008 van den Bremer, T. S. & Breivik, Ø. (2018). Stokes drift. Phil. Trans. R. Soc. A. – ve42.co/Bremer2017 Monismith, S. (2020). Stokes drift: Theory and experiments. Journal of Fluid Mechanics, 884, F1. – ve42.co/Monismith2020 Young, I. R. (1999). Wind Generated Ocean Waves. Elsevier. p. 83. – ve42.co/Young1999 Wright, P. Island Physics. 4.2 Formation of Waves – ve42.co/IslandPhysics American Bureau of Shipping. (2016). Guidance Notes on Selecting Design Wave by Long Term Stochastic Method. – ve42.co/ABS2016 James, S. & Stull, R. (2019). Wave Characteristics. UBC ATSC 113 - Weather for Sailing, Flying & Snow Sports. – ve42.co/James2019 Garrison, T. (2009). Oceanography: An Invitation to Marine Science (7th ed). – ve42.co/Garrison2009
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▀▀▀ Written by Derek Muller & Emily Zhang Edited by Fabio Albertelli Animation by Ivy Tello & Mike Radjabov Filmed by Derek Muller & Emily Zhang Additional video/photos supplied by Pond5 & Getty Images Music from Epidemic Sound Produced by Derek Muller, Petr Lebedev, and Emily Zhang